Safe Cycling In Madrid

So, after a fairly manic weekend running round trying to see all there was to see at the protests, writing about it and trying to lead my normal life around it, it's been back to the same old English teaching routine this week. It does feel like a bit of a daily grind really, especially shipping around the city all day, but I've relaxed a bit more now that I've only got a few weeks left, and at the moment my students are just as likely to be a few minutes late as I am. The protests in Sol are ongoing, until at least Sunday, and today it's been reported that they have launched a clean-up operation after complaints from local businesses. Attention has shifted away a bit in the wake of the election results (and some calls renewed calls for Zapatero's resignation), and the camp isn't quite as vibrant as it was before, but there still seems to be a high level of energy, and the square just south of Sol was crammed full of people sitting and having small meetings when I passed on the bus on Tuesday. Anyway, time for something completely different, here's my guide to cycling safely in Madrid.

A lot of people I know would only use one word for this: "don't", but in my experience people say this about every city and they usually turn out to be non-cyclists. Cycling around a city is a brilliant way to get around and can be a real pleasure. In Madrid, there's no actual monetary incentive to cycle. Even if half your journey's are by bike, you'll still want an abono metro, it's that good value (€47 for unlimited metro and bus travel in Zone A). However, cycling can make getting around the city much quicker, rather than waiting for bus connections or walking to metro stops. All this considered though, Madrid is very different to, say, Manchester, and there are some things that you should consider when cycling on the road here.

Firstly and most importantly, as when cycling on the road anywhere, it's important to be a bit bold and a bit stroppy. Don't hug the pavement. Studies have shown that the further out in the road you are (within reason obviously), the more room cars give you when passing. Also, if you don't want a car to pass you, get in the middle of your lane. As a general rule, motorists don't intentionally mow down cyclists, in Madrid or anywhere else, so as long as you've signalled you're coming out and checked behind you, this can be the safest place to be, especially when approaching a junction or turn.

Now, Spanish driving is notorious for being a bit haphazard and careless, and having witnessed it first-hand and up close, I can confirm this is true to a certain extent. You see parking cars giving others a little nudge a lot more often than you would in the UK, and no-one looks remotely fazed by this. Really though, it isn't recklessness so much as a different driving culture. There are a lot more zebra crossings in Spain, and the traffic lights change with less warning, and so because of all this sudden stopping and starting, cars will speed up to traffic lights before swooping to a halt, which is more than a little disconcerting as a pedestrian! I still always have to wait for the car to stop before I dare stepping out at a zebra crossing too. There's also a flashing yellow on the traffic lights, which comes on with the green man, apparently meaning 'go, so long as you don't run anyone over'. It's a good idea to make sure your brakes are pretty sharp just in case you need to follow suit and make a quick stop. My back brake snapped the other week and I felt very unsafe only using the front one and got it fixed quick-sharp, despite riding a bike with only a front brake in Manchester for the best part of a year.

The main hazard for a cyclist however, is Spanish drivers' use of the slow lane. Most main roads have two lanes, and cars parked down the side, however the main purpose of the slow lane is generally accepted to be to provide a place to stop, turn on the hazzards and drop someone off/nip in to a shop/have a chat with a passing friend/go for a cervesa. Cars very suddenly deciding to stop right in front of you can get pretty iritating, particularly with taxi drivers (who tend to always be the least concerned about cyclists safety anywhere in the world). The police are actually also some of the worst offenders at this too. This also means you have to be on constant watch for every cyclists nightmare: a suddenly opened drivers-side door, particularly when passing stopped cars.

Another thing is that there just aren't as many cyclists as in most British cities. There are a lot of scooters though, so drivers do still look for you, but not as closely and have different expectations of your behavior, speed etc, which is something to be aware of. Also, beware old grates, particularly in Old Madrid (double particularly in Malasana). Many of the slits are easily big enough to get a racing bike wheel stuck in and I've nearly come a cropper a couple of times this way. The climate is also a lot hotter and drier than the UK and something I didn't expect is that this leads to more dust, detrius and bugs in the air and therefore in your eyes. I've been considering buying goggles. It can be pretty hairy when you're coming up to a big junction you suddenly find yourself having to do it an eye down. Lastly, big junctions: some of the roundabouts and the like are pretty complicated in Madrid and if you don't feel confident, it's far better to just get round it on the pavement. Chances are you'll get around it just as quick too!

A little ironically, before writing this I actually had a nightmare cycling home this afternoon. Two punctures on a 15 minute cycle, very unusual, and I botched the first repair as well. I think I might try and sell my bike soon actually, seeing as I've only got about a month left and if it keeps on getting hotter, which I'm told it will, it'll be untenable to cycle to work in a shirt and trousers. Honestly though, sometimes nothing beats cycling around a city, and it's a great way to get to know a place and see some sights. Madrid is on a gentle slope, not too hilly and has a small city centre which makes it ideal for this too, I only wish I'd bought sooner after I arrived.

Word of the Day: bicicleta carretera - racing bike

Spring, El Cuatro Torres and La Noche en Blanco

My afternoon classes were cancelled today so I decided to go and see Madrid's four skyscrapers, the cuatro torres, up near Plaza de Castilla. I had an errand to run on the way and plenty of time to kill so I took my bike. The weather's changed dramatically since the clocks went back (or forward, or whatever) last week and its now really hot and quite humid, so by the time I got to my first destination (after a lovely cycle through La Latina and down Calle Huertas), I was drenched in sweat. I'm going to mostly put this down to the temperature, but cycling up the busy Paseo Castellano is enough to make you perspire even on a cold day. The Spanish driving style certainly makes you use your brakes quite strongly on occasion, and roundabouts are taken at speed.

I'd been wanting to go have a look at the four towers for a while now after seeing them from afar all the time, something my girlfriend has just not been able to understand. I suppose it's quite a male thing... Anyway, when I finally got there via the Plaza de Castilla's leaning towers (it's probably the furthest north I've been in the city, apart from going to the airport), I have to admit she was right. They look a lot more impressive from far away and the area they're in is pretty, well, nothingy. It's not even horribly concreted like the area around the Torre Picasso, there's just nothing else there.

But not to worry, I was back on my bike and off back down the Paseo Castellano until I detoured to coast down through Malasaña and down GranVia to Plaza de España, which I've been wanting to do for ages too. From there I went by the Plaza Oriente and looped past the Palace and through to Opera, round Plaza Mayor to Plaza de Puerta de Cerrada with it's murals and sparrows from where I'm writing this now. The joy of cycling round a city! (After I'd written this on my way down the hill to my flat, another cyclist drew level to say "Madrid! Que bueno!" before speeding past). But enough of that for now, a post about cycling in Madrid coming soon.

Song and dance on the Cercanias

On Saturday I went out to Alcala de Heneres with some friends for El Noche en Blanco, some kind of fiesta the reason for which I'm still not quite sure of. They love a fiesta in Spain and any excuse will do really. After a picnic in Retiro in the overcast but warm afternoon and a fun half an hour Cercanias ride where our group had half the carriage singing along, and even dancing at one point, to Beatles songs (the security didn't really know what to make of this once they realised we weren't doing it for money), we arrived in the main square as darkness was falling at about 9pm to find a stage erected with a local flamenco show in full swing. The participants were evidently local enthusiasts rather than professionals, but that's all part of what's great about Spanish fiestas to me, they're very locally focussed and have a nice community feel to them.

Part of our reason for going was that Alcala is a UNESCO heritage site (and Cervantes birthplace) but, to be honest, it just reminded me very strongly of Chester in the UK. The centre of Valencia is much nicer! Still, the streets were full, the night was warm, and it was nice to sit on the street drinking beer and eating tapas. (Note: careful when asking a waiter for "muchos tapas", you might get more than you bargained for!).

With the hot weather and the lighter evenings, Madrid's terrazas have sprung back out, which brings so much more atmosphere to the streets in the evening. Even the little old bar opposite our flat has bought some tables and chairs. A recent exeptional find though, on a recommendation from a friend, is a rooftop terrace bar called Gaudeamus, on top of an old library on Calle Tribulete in Lavapies. A view over the rooftops and the old church-like stonework combined with good lighting and vegetation make it one of the best drinking spots I've found, and the prices aren't too bad either at €2.80 a decent sized caña. Recommended.

Finally, an update on Madrid's parrot situation. I don't know if this happens every year as it gets warmer but there are more and more of the little green fellas to be seen, or rather heard, near the centre of the city these days and they're a common sight, or rather sound, near our apartment. I'm beginning to see why people released them as pets, they have got quite a squawk on them.

Word of the day: Torres - Towers    (Fernando Torres? Ferdinand Towers)