Monday 25 July 2011

Highlights And Regrets

I started writing this blog (what feels like a very long time ago) partly because I couldn't find the kind of information I was looking for on the internet when I was planning my move to Madrid (although there are actually many other good blogs about moving to Spain too!). With that in mind and the benefit of hindsight now that I'm back in England and have a bit of perspective on things, here are some of the things you should not miss if going to Madrid (to live or for a holiday) as well as some things I would have done differently. I never understand those people who say they have no regrets. To me it just sounds like a lack of imagination! Let's get them out of the way first.

Regrets

Learning Spanish – there are a few things I could have done in order to learn more Spanish. I should have had classes but aside from that I suppose I think it was a mistake not to live with Spanish people. Having English friends is all well and good but I think if you lived with Spaniards you would learn a lot more day to day. I had the opportunity to move in with a Spanish-speaking Brazillian with only a little English when I was in my hostel but I passed it up.

Hours – For the first three months or so that I was in Spain, I didn't have nearly enough hours. I should have pushed for more from my agency or got more private classes through the internet. Private classes can actually be much more fun than agency ones because you can be more relaxed and do your own thing. If I'd have done that, I would have come out with a lot more money as well, rather than just about breaking even as I did in the end. Still, you can't complain, there is a global recession on after all.

Shopping Around for Apartments – Our apartment was pretty grotty, dark and in a area seemingly soley populated with people over the age of 65. I never did get the balcony that I wished for either. That said, €233 a month is very, very cheap and it was only a 10-minute walk from Plaza Mayor, and the recently completed park that runs by the Manznares river has made that area a lot nicer. With hindsight though, Lavapies would have been my ideal area to live in.

Segovia – I never went. The roman viaduct looked amazing.

There you go, nothing too major. And now the best bits...

Highlights

Roof Terraces – There are some great hidden roof terrazas in Madrid. Gaudeamus in Lavapies on top of the library on Calle Tribulete is great, and there's a super-secret one in a residential building on Tirso de Molina which you would never find unless someone took you up there. There's also a very swish (and probably expensive) one on top of the new market in Chueca which I only had a quick glimpse of. Also, many blocks of flats, including mine, have accesible roof terraces. Sitting up there watching the sunset, the palace and cathedral in the foreground, the mountains of the Sierra de Guadarrama as the backdrop while the swallows swooped and screeched among the rooftops, was breathtaking and the perfect antidote to our dark and cramped flat.

Casa de Campo – Casa de Campo is the big forested area on the west of Madrid. It's huge and very easily accessible from the city, walking or by metro (Lago). One of my favourite moments in Madrid was cycling up the hill in Casa de Campo at dusk in Spring during a quite intense time with work and speeding back down, whislting through pockets of hot and cold air with the whole city out in front of me.

Malasaña – a trip to Madrid is not a trip to Madrid without a Malasaña bar crawl in my book. It's Madrid's hipster district, always packed with people ducking in and out of it's countless bars and botellon-ing (sitting round in squares drinking) in the summer, the atmosphere is electric. Clubs around Plaza de España or Chueca are easy walking distance too.

Toledo – only half an hour from Atocha station by high speed train, if you were wondering where all the old building were in Madrid, this is it. Toledo was the capital of Spain before it was moved to Madrid 400 or so years ago. It's a beautiful old city, perched on a meadering bank of a river and is well worth a visit. Toledo goes to bed early so don't expect a party, but as a romantic weekend getaway, it's pretty ideal.

The Mountains – The greenery and scale of the Sierra de Guadarrama make an great break from the crowded, dry and hectic city. They are qutie spectacular too and the little mountain train from Cercedilla to Cotos gives you some fantastic views

The Rastro – The vast Sunday morning market that stretches across southern Old Madrid is a must see. You've never seen so much wonderful junk! Pay a visit to the old tosta shop, El Capricho Extremeño, at the bottom of the hill near Parque del Rastro and get traditional Madrid tostas (toasts) with different toppings, including the Madrid delicacy gulas – eel featuses.


So there you go. Those are just some of the best bits, but of course there were many more, more personal, great times (you'll have to read the rest of the blog for those). All in all, I had a great time in Madrid and it was a really good decision to go. I feel like I learned a lot about myself, turning up in a strange city not knowing anyone or even speaking the language. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone who's at that stage where they don't quite know what to do with themselves yet. Living abroad for a year gives you perspective on both your life and where you come from as well. Teaching English gives you some good working experience too, and looks good on a CV. It's the first proper 'business job' (where I've had to dress smart) I've had and has made me much more confident in an office environment.

It also made me appreciate how valuable my friends at home are to me though, and how important cultural connections can be. It can sometimes be very lonely living abroad. The thought of going to Barcelona and starting again from scratch, even with Kate this time, has seemed less and less appealing since coming back. Various friends we thought were going to be there now aren't either and so we decided, it's London instead! As soon as we'd made the decision, I felt a great sense of relief. I'd only ever planned to go away for a year and seeing everyone again just made me want to stay. It felt like I'd be drifting further out of people's lives if I did another year and it was beginning to feel more like exile. Maybe I'd go away for a year again later but straight after just felt like too much.

So I'm incredibly excited to be moving to London! I've never lived there before, and it seems like a natural next step, especially as almost all my friends from university are there as well as an increasing number from home too.

And so, I suppose, that brings me to the end of this blog's life. I've really enjoyed writing it and reading comments by people, please email me at barney.guiton@gmail.com if you have any questions or want any advice about Madrid. I'm planning on writing a few different things when I go to London, a bit more orignal than this blog, and I'll post them on here when they're up and running.

But until then, thanks for reading and hasta la proxima!

Friday 8 July 2011

The Journey Home

Having packed my two cases full to bursting, I had to lug them plus a big backpack across the metro system to Chamartin station where the Paris-bound tren hotel leaves from. Typical Spain, they waited until about 15 minutes before departure to display (and probably to choose) the platform it would be leaving from. I was a bit surprised when I got on to find I wasn't in a sleeper compartment but the (apparently only) carriage with reclining seats instead. I'm not quite sure how I managed that, maybe I was just assigned it when I booked. Anyway, there was plenty of room and the seats were comfortable enough. No power sockets though, disappointingly.

Off it chugged, north out of Madrid, leaving the four towers in the distance, through some beautiful mountain scenery in the evening sun, before emerging onto wide yellow plains that made for a pretty spectacular sunset. One thing was that it wasn't as smooth a ride as I'd expected. Walking down through the many, many carriages (about 8) to the buffet car, I had to hold onto the walls to keep my balance.

This turbulence didn't stop me from getting a pretty good nights sleep though. It was comparable to sleeping on an aeroplane I suppose, but with more room and more recline on the seats. I felt quite fresh when we were coming up through much greener France the next morning. No breakfast or anything by the way. I don't know if that's only for people in the sleepers but I saw no evidence of it.

The train arrived in Paris about half an hour late, turning the time pressure up a bit. I had about 40 mins to get from Austerlitz station to Gare du Nord in time for the 30 minute Eurostar check in. Unfortunatley, I'd forgotten that the Paris metro doesn't really do escalators and it was hard work heaving my suitcases up and down stair cases. I've only just got rid of the pain in my shoulders and blisters on my hands! I made it in plenty of time though, it only takes about 20 minutes if you are halfway decent at navigating your way through metro systems.

Boarding the Eurostar, (listening to a woman booming into a mobile "Yes, this is Mrs. Smith, I'm calling for Mrs. Johnson! Yes, Johnson!" in the Queens finest posh English accent- nearly home!) for a while, I thought I'd mistakenly booked myself onto first class. The Eurostar is seriously nice: big seats, power sockets, breakfast, but that's all just standard class. It was nice and everything but I couldn't help wishing it were a little less fancy and a little easier on the pocket. At £130, this part of the journey had cost more than the Madrid-Paris leg, and I don't really need Tropicana orange juice and ye olde English jam with my croissant. I'd rather sit on the floor and pay £30, but maybe that's just me. Maybe they should just have one paupers carriage where they pack you in?

Arrived in London at about 11am feeling pretty pleased to have made it with all cases etc in tact (I'm not good at catching trains on time) and after breezing through customs (they were on strike), I set off with my suitcases on our third capital city metro system in 24 hours. Luckily for my hands and shoulders, I wasn't going up to Sheffield (where my parents' house is) that day but just dropping the cases off at a friend's in Archway and then going straight to work at a festival (hence the delay in writing this).

All in all, I've got to say, it was quite a pleasant trip. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be, but then again, not quite as romantic as I'd hoped either. I also realised, after taking Kate to the airport in Madrid, and having to do some comical last minute bag 'weight adjustment' ("I'll wear that and that, chuck these!"), it would have costr me a fortune to take all my stuff back by air. On Ryanair your checked luggage is limited at 15kg, and it's €20 for every additional kilogram. Mind you, I did struggle with the cases and it's not an option everyone would want to take (although my suitcases were old and not particularly fit for purpose).

For me, the train was definately the nicest way to travel. I like the journey, and don't like flying for environmental reasons. Also, I find airports quite stressful, and the restrictions annoying. The coach on the other hand, although considerably cheaper, was a little too long, and much less comfortable than the train.

So anyway, it's good to be back and I've been enjoying some much missed pleasures of England (fish and chips, bangers and mash, beer than isn't Mahou), catching up with friends, as well as spending a lovely evening in a picturesque Kent beer garden overlooked by some old hops chimneys.

It took me a while to take in the fact that everyone here speaks English. I found myself muttering and gesturing at waiters and cashiers in supermarkets for a couple of days but once it sunk in, the lack of any kind of language barrier has been great too, chatting away to barmen, taxi drivers and check out assisstants at will.

Catching up with friends and family (and gossip) has been amazing as well. People have got girl/boyfriends, split up, got jobs, changed plans and so on while I've been away and it feels weird to have been out of everything for so long. I also just went to visit my sister and see my nephew who was born while I was out there, which was pretty special. It's definately been the hardest thing for me, and it makes me wonder if I can do another year abroad already come September. Decision to be made very soon!